Craft beer bars and craft beer drinkers around the country
are notorious for dismissing the Big Guys. Who are the Big Guys you ask?
Anheuser-Bush and Miller-Coors, and any other macro brewery in the US. The question
is why are these breweries being dismissed?
There is a perception within the craft beer community that
the Big Guys brew beers that don’t have any flavor and are of low quality, but
I’m here to say that this is a misguided perception. What is amazing about the
Big Guys is that they brew beer that has the exact same outcome every time they
release a beer. The Miller Lite you drink today will taste the exact same a
week, month, year down the road. To brew a beer a light beer, in the quantities
they brew, and make it the same every time is not easy. Brewing relies on
agricultural materials that change every harvest. The Big Guys are great at
analyzing the raw materials they receive and tweaking every single recipe so
that every Miller Lite you drink is the same every single time.
Another perception is that Pilsners and light beers are not
high quality because they are light in color and flavor. Pilsners were one of
the first beer styles brewed in Bohemia and Germany. This style was perfect for
the Pilzen, Bohemia (now Czech Republic) climate and materials and ingredients
available. Pilsners are brewed using light pale or pilsner malts, noble German
hop varieties, and slow fermenting lager yeast. Pilsners showcase crisp, sweet,
cereal malt flavors and spicy hops without residual yeast fermentation flavors
that ale yeast would produce.
Due to new technology in the early 1840’s, malt kilning was
improved which allowed for lightly kilned malt and not the dark, roasted, smoky
malt that brewers previously were forced to use for their beer. The proximity
of Bohemia to Germany allowed for Pilzn brewers to use the German noble Saaz
hops in their brews, and the mountain region provided caves perfect for that
close to 50 degree temperature that lager yeast loves for fermentation. Once
fermentation was complete, brewers would move the light beer further into the
caves and pack it with ice to cold store. During this process, the beer would
sit on the yeast and allow the yeast to absorb intermediary fermentation
character produced during fermentation. Once conditioning was complete, the finished
beer was a crystal clear, straw colored easy drinking beer. Thanks to new
crystal glassware, beer drinkers could see through this brilliantly light
colored beer and appreciate its crisp, clean flavor and drinkability. This beer
style quickly became the most brewed style in all of Europe and to this day is
the number one brewed style.
The light ingredients used in this style of beer don’t allow
any room for error. If the beer is flawed, it is very noticeable. For example,
the popular American style IPA is loaded with bitter, pungent, resinous,
floral, citrus, piney hops which help to cover any undesirable fermentation off
flavors. Pilsners don’t have that intense hopping or darker roasted malts to
cover up fermentation flaws. Brewers of Pilsners have to ensure that the beer
is brewed perfectly from start to finish. If not, undesirable flavors in the
beer will be obvious.
As craft beer bars or craft beer drinkers, we don’t have to
always like to drink what the Big Guys brew, but we have to acknowledge what
they do and how they’ve paved the way for craft breweries. Without the Big
Guys, there wouldn’t be the large numbers of beer drinkers who may decide that
they want to venture out to try new beers, at which point they realize that
there are other beers available than light beer.
There is a place for every beer. It may not be in the craft
beer bar, but there is a place. Many craft breweries are starting to brew
Pilsners and light lagers. Sierra Nevada has been brewing Summerfest for years,
Pilsners and other craft lagers are the next thing in craft brewing and we have
the Big Guys to thank.
-Randyl Danner, Director of Beer, Beer KC
It seems like you acknowledged the perception that the craft beer community finds macros' flavor and quality inferior, and then, in lieu of addressing those issues, speak of consistent outcomes. But not of the outcomes themselves. And then equivocate Pilsners and light beers with macrobrewed AALs. Both of these arguments strike me as fallacious. But yes, I can appreciate how these breweries start people on the path to other beers--in much the same way that a Happy Meal can lead a person to someday enjoy a Beer Kitchen burger. That doesn't mean that a McDonald's burger, or a Hot Pocket, or a box of Franzia or a handle of McCormick's Scotch don't deserve dismissal, nor do those products' "Big Guys"-level of amazing consistency. They're rubbish. That's fine. I'll enjoy all of those things and a Coors Light from time to time, but not because I achieved some sort of enlightenment involving the appreciation of cheaply made junk. Just because everybody likes junk sometimes.
ReplyDeleteAll good points Randyl. I honestly like lagers and pilsners and am not too judgmental when it comes to the beers that macros put out. I dislike and don't support macros because of their business practices. Smear campaigns, lobbying groups, and backroom distributor dealings prevent me from wanting to hand over my money to these companies.
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